Lost in Provence

Coming Attractions: Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue

 

Isle Sur La Sourge

Attention all shoppers! Do you love the smell of commerce in the morning? Can you shop and never drop? If so, a visit to Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue is for you. This little village, just 45 minutes from our house is comprised almost entirely of (pause for dramatic effect...) ANTIQUE STORES.*

Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue is home to 300 permanent antique dealers, that number swelling to 500 during the antique fair that attracts sellers from all over the world every August. But don't worry, non-shoppers.** There are plenty of non-commercial diversions available, in addition to the multitude of lovely bars, restaurants and cafés that make perfect meeting points after a day's shopping.

Isle Sur La Sourge

This charming medieval town is built on the islands of five branches of the Sorgue river, earning it the nickname "the Venice of Provence." Even without gondolas, water adds a special beauty and character to a town. Sorgue has many river branches and canals, huge overhanging plane trees and several large, lovely waterwheels. Even if the many mills are no longer working, some of the waterwheels still turn.

Isle Sur La Sourge

Sites to see or visit: 300 antique stores, Parc Gautier, Baroque church Notre Dame des Anges, rare collection of Moustier faience. Also, magnificent mansions have been converted into art galleries, in particular the famous Maison René Char - Hotel Donadeï de Campredon (18thc.), now a museum exhibiting such great artists as Miro, Mauguin or Dufy and a display area dedicated to René Char.

Leisure activities: Market on Thursday and Sunday mornings, hiking, horseback riding, tennis, 18 hole golf course, fishing, kayaking.

Cultural events: Summer fêtes and music festivals.

More pictures at right under "Photos."

 

* Tanya, I can almost hear you packing your suitcase as I type these words.

** Al, this refers to you.

Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Asparagus but Were Afraid to Ask

Asparagus gratin

I've been in a bit of a slump, writing-wise, lately. So after more afternoons of fruitless web surfing and vacant staring out the window than I care to count, I decided to consult an expert for some inspiration. My friend and neighbor, Jan, is a former editor of the London Daily Mail, a newspaper so influential in Britian that its power has been equated to that of a cabinet minister's. Now a French resident, she has a pretty sweet deal. Whenever inspiration strikes (or she is a little low on cash), she calls a friend of hers who works as an editor at the paper and pitches him a story, which he always agrees to both print and write her a big fat check for. This is clearly a woman who can teach me a thing or two.

Naturally, she doesn't like to give away her best ideas for free, but we are good enough friends that she doesn't mind suggesting story topics that she isn't planning on using herself. And this was one of them: "Why not write something for the food section on Asparagus?" Asparagus? "Did you know that Pertuis is known for having the best asparagus in all of France?"

Three types of asparagus

I did not know that. 

But now that I knew, did I care?

I decided I did. After all, it's quite something to discover that a village just one town over has the best something in the nation, even a nation as small as this one. It would be like someone in Brookfield learning that New Berlin makes the best curly fries in Wisconsin, or someone in Hartland discovering that Oconomowoc is home to the state's finest Taco Bell, or a Chicagoan... Actually, this doesn't really work with Chicago, where residents consider anything within the city limits but north of Irving Park Road so far away that it may as well be part of Canada and therefore not worth knowing anything about.

So anyway, I set out to discover what's interesting about asparagus. And here's the verdict: Not much. But I'll let you be the judge of that. Here are some asparagus facts my research has uncovered:

• The English word "asparagus" derives from classical Latin, but it was once known in English as sperage, from the Medieval sparagus, which is from the Greek aspharagos or asparagos, which is from the Persian asparag, meaning "sprout" or "shoot." Still awake? Or did I lose you?
• In parts of Texas it is referred to as "aspar grass," a fact that I find comical, but not surprising, given that it's Texas and all.
• There are three kinds of asparagus: Green, white and wild (the last of which is well-known for its risqué spring break videos).
• Asparagus is prepared differently all over the world, but is most commonly steamed and served with a bit of Hollandaise sauce.
• Hollandaise is a Dutch word and sauce, but it sounds and tastes better when someone French is in charge.
• Asparagus rhizomes and root are used to treat urinary tract infections as well as kidney and bladder stones. Yummy!
• It is also believed to have aphrodisiacal properties (see aforementioned videos).
• Some of the constituents of asparagus are metabolized and excreted in the urine, giving it a distinctive smell.
• Recent studies suggest that every individual produces these odorous compounds upon eating asparagus, but that only about 40% of individuals have the genes required to smell them. No mention was made of who was in charge of smelling the pee or what had prompted them to choose such a career, which, to me, would have been the interesting part of this anecdote. But it did have the side effect of making me feel grateful to be an unsuccessful writer rather than a successful pee-sniffer. 

Asparagus at market

So there you have it, my non-article about the humble (and perhaps deservedly so) asparagus plant. Sure, I may have wasted the good part of a morning researching and writing this, but at least I wasn't playing on the internet or putzing around the house... Or working with urine. On the downside, though, it is unlikely that anyone will pay to read this. Unless each of you agrees to mail me a dollar. Then I'll be the one with the sweet deal. And I'll consider this slump officially over. 

Coming Attractions: Rustrel and Roussillon

The Provençal Colorado

This year's guest list is shaping up into quite the all-star roster. Johann and I are looking forward to seeing every single one of you! And uniquely this year, many of you (Erin, Francesco, Leah, Reynald, Daryl, Scott, Nozomi, Kelli) have never visited us before. Of course some of you (Mom, Dad, Al, Tanya, Ken) have been to Provence before and are well familiar with the area.

Rustrel Château

But for the sake of all our valued guests, I thought I'd give you a preview of what's in store for you here. Of course, you're all aware of the charms of Provence; the rolling hills covered in grapevines, the fields of golden sunflowers, the smell of lavender wafting in the breeze, the hillside castles around every bend, the sumptuous cuisine and the incomparable wine.

But the region has much more to offer than a first glance might reveal. For example, take the ochre deposits in Roussillon and Rustrel. Just 30 minutes or so from our door, it is as if one has left not only France, but Earth itself, as the former quarries resemble a moonscape more than anything else.

The Provençal Colorado

Both sites are protected national parks and are accessible via sometimes steep but always breathtaking footpaths. In Rustrel, the River Doa has cut a gorge into the ochre, earning it the moniker "The Provençal Colorado."* With hiking paths from 1 km-5.5 km. and elevations ranging from 10-150 metres (30-500 feet), the area is perfect for hiking.

Sites to see or visit: Provençal Colorado, Ochre Trail, 17th century chateau, 9th century ruins of the Prieuré St. Julien, St. Roman Church, Chapel St. Roch.

Leisure activities: Hiking, cycling tours, man-made lake, fishing and pétanque.

Cultural events: Summer festivals and jazz concerts.

Rustrel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 * Right now, my friend in Colorado is reading this and thinking, "Yeah, right. Where are the slopes, man?"